The Andes

Ok, so blogging isn't easy. It requires discipline, dedication, and significant amounts of free time. When it comes to my blog I have been lacking in all three areas over the past year or so. My plan is to use this post to break that spell and get back to my usual travel blogging.

 
I am currently in the Andes mountains in Peru driving towards a train that will eventually take me to Machu Picchu, the famed Inca city. The landscape is breathtaking and the foliage along with the backdrop of snow covered peaks is right out of a blockbuster movie. Whining through the mountains I can't help but wonder (1) how/why the hell did the Incas make it all the way up here, (2) they made a great choice. Peru is beautiful in a way that differs slightly from the other Latin American countries. It's seemingly more rustic and rough around the edges than its neighbors. The people look less European and the poverty level seems greater on average.

Here, high in the middle of the mountains in old Inca territory the people look very different but still I recognize them. Their faces are the those of indigenous people all over the world. They are the faces of the Carib Indians of the Caribbean, the Mayan descendents in Mexico, the Male people of the Maldives, the indigenous Indians of North America, and the slave descendents in Brazil and Colombia. Yes, their faces look very familiar though I've never seen them before. Their struggles are the same too. They're still mostly very poor and almost second class citizens. Their strong, rich history now serves as amusement for wondering westerners like myself, and even though many of those visitors recognize their misfortune and contributions to civilization nothing is ever done to change their plight.

Many of these indigenous people are experiencing a second pillaging by most measures. 500k visitors to Machu Picchu each year amounts to a $xxxM business and yet the surrounding people are still poor and disadvantage. Most of the money goes to big business, many of which are foreign. It's the dark side of adventure tourism, some would say of tourism in general.

Machu Picchu is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Since its discovery in 1911 a growing number of tourists visit Machu Picchu each year, reaching 400,000 in 2000. Today that number is much greater. As Peru's most visited tourist attraction and major revenue generator, it is continually threatened by economic and commercial forces. In the late 1990s, the Peruvian government granted concessions to allow the construction of a cable car and development of a luxury hotel, including a tourist complex with boutiques and restaurants. Many people protested against the plans, including members of the Peruvian public, international scientists, and academics, as they were worried that the greater numbers of visitors would pose a tremendous physical burden on the ruins. Many protested a plan to build a bridge to the site as well.

Though despite the crowds at the site and my feelings of sorrow for the surrounding residents Machu Picchu remains on my bucket list and certainly one of the greatest historical sites in the world. Today I plan on checking one more item off that list and hopefully leave with a better understanding on what life was, and is, for the people of the Andes.

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More Vietnam

Vietnam has a lot to offer the adventure tourist, but luxury travelers need not apply. It is rough, gritty, and dirty by most standards. However, what it lacks in polish it makes up for in uniqueness and diversity. I loved Vietnam in the same way I love China. They both are developing countries with something amazing happening around every corner. Even though I've traveled extensively in Asia and lived here for a bit I still found entertaining surprises in Vietnam.

The people of Vietnam weren't amazingly friendly, but they weren't rude either. Many of them were occupied trying to sell me something, which is understandable considering the economic hardship most live with. The pan handling is easily ignored though considering all the great things happening around you.

The food in Vietnam is delicious. If you like spicy food then you wouldn't be disappointed here. I enjoyed the simplicity of most of the meals and found a lot of options for any taste or dietary restrictions.

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Exploring Vietnam

Vietnam is a naturally beautiful country even though still very rough around the edges. During my trip I was able to explore the cities of Ho Chi Minh and Hanoi both of which have their own unique charm and lots to offer tourists. I was also able to get out of the city and go to more remote areas of Vietnam where the remnants of the long war still lingers around like ornaments for all to see.

"Vietnam – sometimes spelled Viet Nam, officially the Socialist Republic of Vietnam is the easternmost country on the Indochina Peninsula in Southeast Asia. It is bordered by China to the north, Laos to the northwest, Cambodia to the southwest, and the South China Sea – referred to in Vietnam as the East Sea – to the east. With an estimated 90.5 million inhabitants as of 2011, Vietnam is the world's 13th-most-populous country, and the eighth-most-populous Asian country." - Wikipedia

There is so much to see and do in Vietnam that the 8 days I spent there went by fast and I left feeling like I missed a few things. There are many other cities to explore other than Ho Chi Minh and Hanoi, even though they are the most known, and those cities also offer unique experiences for the wandering tourist. I cover the various locations we visited in detail in other posts so keep an eye out for them.

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So Hard To Say Goodbye

It's been an amazing eight days and I can't believe it's already over. The trip was so good I extended it for another two days. Being from the Caribbean I have a strong bias towards Caribbean islands and I've spent some time in most of them. I have to say though that the Maldives have no equal and blows anything you can find in the Caribbean out of the water. This was truly a trip of a lifetime and I can't wait to do it again, sometime in the future. For now though I have my memories and lots of pictures.

Everything on our island was exception and the service was hard to complain about. The beaches were deserted and stretched for miles around the island. The waves were calm and inviting and the snorkel was amazing. I give the Maldives a ten and it is now the yard stick by which all other tropical vacations will be measured.

So off we go now to VietNam where more adventure awaits.

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This Must Be Heaven

So I finally made it to the Maldives after much traveling and a little adventure in Sri Lanka. My first impression was that the airport on Male is ridiculously busy and not so inviting. I prayed that our resort was nothing like this, and my prayers were answered. After arriving at night from Sri Lanka we stayed the night at the Male Traders Hotel which wasn't bad for what it was. We awoke early the next morning to take a speed boat to some other island where we caught our sea plane to the Hilton Maldives on Iru Fushi.

The sea plane ride was noisy but it allowed us to see many of the other atolls along the way, which made the trip pretty cool. Each resort is on it's own island, for the most part, so you have the greatest of privacy and relaxation once you arrive. The staff greeted us at the dock with drinks and flowers and I felt as if our vacation started as soon as we stepped off the plane. We were assigned one person who would take care of everything while we were on the resort so we didn't have to deal with multiple people for different things, I thought that was a good idea.

We quickly checked in then headed out to explore the island. Strategically it was the low season so there weren't that many other guests at the resort. We had a quick tour of the various facilities from the comfort of our golf cart then headed off to the water villa  to relax and unwind for our long journey.

The water villas are little cottages on stilts that sit in the waters off the island. Since the island is almost completely surrounded by a coral wall the water is very calm and still. At night and during the day we sea schools of fish, sting rays, and even some sand sharks through the glass floor of the villa. At the back of the villa is a ladder which allows you to easily climb into and out of the water for a quick swim or snorkel.

I think we were in the pool once during our 8 days at the resort, and this was on the first day when we didn't know any better. But you really have to need to ever use the pool. Some of the villas even have their own infinity pool on the back patio, I didn't spring for one of those though.

After a quick swim and a long nap it was time to hit the restaurant and have some dinner. Here's a tip, walk with lots of strong sunblock.

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Heading to The Maldives

So I am off to the Maldives, one of the most beautiful and enchanted places on earth (so I've heard). The Maldives are a series of ancient coral reefs that grew up around the sides of towering prehistoric volcanoes. These immense structures have long since sunk into the ocean, leaving behind coral islands of incredible natural beauty. Most islands are surrounded by a ring of coral called the house reef. Between the beach and the reef the water is protected, quite shallow and very safe for swimming. The reef is the best place to snorkel where most of the fish lives. Beyond the reef is deep blue water where the bigger fish live, sharks, manta rays, sail fish etc. This area is great for snorkeling and diving and I hope to do some of both once I get there. Some islands do not have a house reef and are just in sandy lagoons. If you are a keen snorkeler it is always good to ask if your resort has a house reef. The atolls of Maldives encompass a territory spread over roughly 90,000 square kilometres (35,000 sq mi), making it one of the world's most geographically dispersed countries. It was then ruled by a sultanate and an authoritarian government.

Getting There

Most travelers fly into Male, the main island and capital of the Maldives. From there you can take a boat to your resort island or go by sea plane. There are speed boats for shorter transfers up to 20 miles from the airport, seaplane transfers to islands between 20 and 100 miles from the airport and domestic air services for resorts over 100 miles away). Some resorts offer both and give clients an option. The transfers are handled by the resorts which sign contracts with the competing seaplane and launch companies. Transfers are, therefore, an integral part of booking a room and are booked by the resort at the same time as the room. They are also significantly expensive.

The hotel will arrange the arrival and departure transfer around the scheduled timings of the long haul flight. It will not always coincide exactly and you should be prepared for a wait sometimes for their transfer on arrival and sometimes for time in hand before check in on departure day.

Seaplanes can only fly in daylight and many boat journeys at night are also unsafe due to unlit coral reefs.

If you're arriving or departing on night flights or departing on early morning flights you should think about making special arrangements. If the flight arrives at night and no night transfer is available, then overnight accommodation at or near the airport needs to be arranged. This also applies to early departures if the latest check in time is before 6.30.am. I had to do this since my flight arrives at night, but it isn't so bad. Ok, next stop is paradise!

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Hiroshima

When you hear the word Hiroshima the first thought that probably comes to mind is that of atomic explosion and nuclear fallout. As the first city to be struck with a nuclear bomb Hiroshima will forever be associated with the beginning of the nuclear age. Though for those of you who plan on visiting the city in the future don't expect to see rubble and destruction. The city is now a thriving metropolis with few remnants of the war left to be seen.

Hiroshima is the capital of Hiroshima Prefecture, and the largest city in the Chūgoku region of western Honshu, the largest island of Japan. It became best known as the first city in history to be destroyed by a nuclear weapon. Hiroshima was founded on the river delta coastline of the Seto Inland Sea in 1589 by the powerful warlord Mōri Terumoto, who made it his capital after leaving Koriyama Castle in Aki Province.

Hiroshima takes its nuclear history rather seriously and is an open and vocal opponent to nuclear proliferation. The city and surrounding areas also makes an effort to pass on it's history to future generations. On my visit to the city I spotted no less than 10 student class trips to the Hiroshima Peace Memorial Park. The park, which was created at the center of the nuclear blast, serves as a living memorial to the victims of the nuclear bombing and contains a number of statues and monuments dedicated to those victims.

Each year, on the anniversary of the Hiroshima bombing, the mayor of Hiroshima sends an open letter to the ambassadors of each confirmed nuclear nation objecting to the continued existence of their nuclear stockpile. Hiroshima now considers itself a city of peace and the poster child of the movement to bring and end to the existence of nuclear weapons. I didn't ask what was the city's official stance on nuclear energy, but considering recent events it would have been interesting to find out.

My day in Hiroshima consisted of a walk through the Peace Memorial Park, a stroll through the museum, and riding the ancient city trams. The park is very lovely and well laid out and, as the epicenter of the nuclear bomb, it's a chilling reminder of man's ability to destroy himself. The city is much slower than other large cities in Japan that I've visited and feels like the kind of place I'll be happy settling down in and raise a family. The sky was blue and clear with some clouds thrown in for effect. This contrasts significantly with Tokyo at this time of year which tends to be a bit more hazy with low visibility. It seemed like no one in Hiroshima was in a rush to do anything or go anywhere, which could have been a product of the heat. And oh yes, it was hot.

If you plan on visiting the city during the summer months I urge you to stay in air conditioned accommodations. We stayed in the Hiroshima Sheraton hotel which is 100 yards from the train station. This was extremely convenient and the hotel did not at all suffer from noise pollution or excessive foot traffic. That partially because the lobby is on the 6th floor and every room is on a floor above that. The Sheraton was an extra bonus since I've decided to become loyal to Starwood Hotels.

We should all pray never to live through another Hiroshima as victims or as by standers. The destruction caused by the bomb is unimaginable and seeing it up close in the museum was incredibly sad. That, coupled with the fact that the most destructive atomic bomb tested to date is 3100 times more destructive than the Hiroshima bomb, should make anyone violently against nuclear weapons. No matter what the issue or conflict there simply has to be a better way.

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Himeji Castle

Photo source: Wikipedia

As we were taking the train from Osaka to Kobe I noticed that there was a stop about 30 minutes away called Himeji. Immediately I recalled a conversation I had with an engineer in the office about Himeji Castle. He explained that very few foreigners make the trek to Himeji to see the castle even though it's one of the largest and best preserved in the country. So we decided that there was no better time to make a trip to Himeji than now. It was only 30 minutes and about $10 away and I would never be any closer. So, after doing the rounds in Kobe, we hopped back onto the JR Kobe line and headed further south to Himeji.

Himeji Castle must be one of the least talked about Japanese castles, yet is a totally amazing experience. The castle is one of the largest in the country and stands perched at the top of a hill within walking distance from Himeji station in Himeji. Once outside Himeji Station we were greeted by a wide, tree-lined, street that led us directly from the station to the Himeji castle grounds. We could see the castle at the top of a hill at the other end of the street in all its majesty and even from about a mile away it was still rather impressive.

"Himeji Castle is a hilltop Japanese castle complex located in Himeji in Hyōgo Prefecture. The castle is regarded as the finest surviving example of prototypical Japanese castle architecture, comprising a network of 83 buildings with advanced defensive systems from the feudal period. Himeji Castle dates to 1333, when Akamatsu Norimura built a fort on top of Himeyama hill. The fort was dismantled and rebuilt as Himeyama Castle in 1346, and then remodeled into Himeji Castle two centuries later. Himeji Castle was then significantly remodeled in 1581 by Toyotomi Hideyoshi, who added a three-story castle keep. In 1600, Tokugawa Ieyasu awarded the castle to Ikeda Terumasa for his help in the Battle of Sekigahara, and Ikeda completely rebuilt the castle from 1601 to 1609, expanding it into a large castle complex." - Wikipedia

Once on the castle grounds we started our journey up the hill to the main tower of the castle. The castle grounds are extremely well kept, as is to be expected, and almost exactly as they were since it's creation. Unfortunately the castle is currently undergoing repairs so it was draped in a massive tarp - which explains the wikipedia image opening this post. The huge bonus of the current construction is that we were able to go to the very top of the castle and stand on the roof - awesome view. I have included a few images of the ground in a link below, because as always pictures do a much better job than I can do explaining.


Himeji Castle Gallery

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Shin-Kobe Ropeway

Although much ink has been spilled in praise of the Kobe foreign homes, I found them (1) hard to get to and (2) not very impressive to look at or be in. If you're completely in love with Japanese history then your opinion may certainly differ from mine. I recommend visiting them yourself to get a sense of it. I'll give you one recommendation, don't go in the summer. My trip was in late June and, although July and August are typically the hottest months, it was sweltering. The fact that the foreign homes are located at the top of a rather steep hill certainly didn't add anything to their enjoyment.

However, if you did make the trip up the hill by foot, bus, or taxi you can easily hop onto the Shin-Kobe Ropeway for one of the most scenic views of Kobe city and Osaka bay. The Shin-Kobe Ropeway was definitely my favorite activity in the city, that's unless you consider eating an activity. The Shin-Kōbe Ropeway is Japanese aerial lift line in Kōbe, Hyōgo, operated by Kōbe City Urban Development. It has an official nickname Kōbe Yume-Fūsen. Opened in 1991, the line links Shin-Kōbe Station and Nunobiki Herb Garden. Its scenic view is popular among tourists.

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Kobe

From the moment I decided to move to Japan Kobe city has been at the top of my "to visit" list. The fact that it took me an entire year to make the trek south to Kobe is both a shame and a testament to the many wonderful things there are to do in Tokyo alone. On my recent visit to the city, however, I tried to make up for the delay by taking part in the top 3 things to do in Kobe. I'll cover each over three posts, but first here is a little history of Kobe city.

Kobe is the sixth-largest city in Japan and is the capital city of Hyōgo Prefecture on the southern side of the main island of Honshū, approximately 500 km (310.69 mi) west of Tokyo. Kobe is a prominent port city with a population of about 1.5 million.

The history of Kobe is very interesting, as is the history of many cities in Japan, however Kobe is also world renowned for it's excellent steak and beef products. Restaurant goers all over the world pay a premium for meat that bares the Kobe stamp and many will ask for it by name. Most people have heard the word Kobe before even realizing that it's a city in Japan or anything else about the city. Certainly, one of my primary tasks when I visited the city was to sample the famous Kobe beef prepared the way it should by a local chef.

Getting to Kobe from Osaka, which is where we stayed overnight, was very simple. From Osaka Station we took the JR Kobe line about 4 stops to Kobe Station - done. The fare was 390JPY and the trip took about 15 minutes. Conveniently we stayed in the Westin Osaka which was not far from Osaka Station and operated a shuttle bus from the hotel to the station and back.

As soon as we exited the train station we headed to a restaurant that, from advertising, seemed to be just what I was looking for. It was located on the 4th floor of an unassuming building 3 blocks from Kobe Station. As it was midday there was no wait for seating and the restaurant was sparsely occupied. The restaurant only served set menu options so we decided to go with something down the middle price-wise. Our lunch consisted of grilled vegetables, soup, grilled bread, rice, and steak. Everything was delicious and prepared with great care in front of us by our friendly chef, who was fine with me snapping away on my camera will he worked.

The meal was superb and the steak was absolutely incredible. Honestly I couldn't have made the meal any better. What was best about our lunch was the price. At about $35/plate our lunch was also very economical for what we received. I could have left Kobe right after lunch and feel satisfied to have made the trek, however there was still more of Kobe to see. Kobe is also famed for it's foreign homes which are a part of Kobe's early history. And no visit to Kobe could possibly be complete without a ride on the Kobe Ropeway up mount Rokko.

Here are a few pics for your enjoyment.

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